Some definitions to keep in mind if you go to England this year:
London (noun)-wondrous, civilized, fancy.
Expensive (adjective)-see London above.
But London will remain a favorite destination of Americans, regardless of the pounding of the dollar. This year is the 40th anniversary of Queen Elizabeth II`s reign, as good a time as any to try to glimpse one of the royals being chauffeured out of Buckingham Palace, to savor the stories about the crumbling marriage of the Duke and Duchess of York over afternoon tea at the Palm Court or to spend an afternoon at the splendid Tower of London and a heady night at the theater.
Walk along Queen`s Walk in Green Park. The path was named for the wife of King George II. St. James`s Park is just to the east and calls to mind the parks in Henry James` novels, where intrigue and secrets and reflections take place.
When we were there this spring, it rained one afternoon, and the still-bare trees stood like stark sculptures against the gray afternoon sky. All around, daffodils were in bloom, creating an arresting contrast with the trees.
The park, with its oblong lake, is the oldest in London. It was created from a swamp in 1532 by Henry VIII, who stocked it with deer. His daughter, Queen Elizabeth I, staged jousts and country parties there.
Anyone`s first trip to London has Buckingham Palace near the top of the must-see list. The changing of the guard happens at 11 a.m. daily. The Royal Standard flying over the palace indicates that the queen is in residence.
There are no tours of the family apartments, as is the case with many of the great palaces and castles in England and Scotland. Inside the palace complex, though, the Queen`s Gallery exhibits works from her collection.
You can walk through Green Park and St. James`s Park and wander through the public areas at Buckingham Palace in about two hours, then head due west towards St. James`s Palace, another Henry VIII creation.
Academic art
If you are fascinated by the history of England and some of the more famous members of the royal family but abhor wandering around museums, at least go to the Royal Academy of Arts. Current exhibitions show the range of the academy`s interests, from the somber works of the Italian painter Andrea Mantegna to the exuberance of the mobiles, sculpture and jewelry of Alexander Calder.
Like many cities in Europe, London is meant to be seen on foot. Much of the best viewing is at street level, and many buildings of architectural interest can be ventured into. Among the fanciest neighborhoods is St. James`s. Within a few blocks are historic shops that offer handmade hats, silk umbrellas, rare wines and whiskies, leather goods and the best English cheeses.
The area is anchored by St. James`s Palace, the belle epoque Ritz Hotel and the Royal Academy of Arts. The window shopping is mouth-watering.
Berry Brothers and Rudd, with its wide, uneven plank floors from the 17th Century, is worth stopping by for a purchase of rare vintages tucked into its cluttered cellar or for a look at its collection of wine-trade artifacts. Of special interest are the huge coffee scales that were used by famous people to weigh themselves when they were in the shop. The dates and weights of George III and the Aga Khan are among those inscribed in the book.
Go to the circus
At the heart of the West End is Piccadilly Circus, teeming with activity much like Times Square.
The Circus is the funky and offbeat side of London. At night it can be seamy but exciting. It`s a gathering spot for London`s youth and pub crawlers who don leather jackets and little square sunglasses and hang out at the nightclubs just off the Circus.
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The Tower of London, overlooking the Thames, proved to be worth every minute of the afternoon we spent there. I always had thought of the Tower as the place where nobles were executed and where the world`s most fabulous collection of gold and jewelry is stored. It`s both, but more.
The complex, properly called Her Majesty`s Royal Palace and Fortress of the Tower of London has been subject of much romanticizing over the years. After the royal family abandoned it as a residence in the 16th Century, it served as an arsenal, a treasury and a mint. During the reign of Henry VIII the Tower became a sort of state prison for court members who had fallen from favor and queens who lost the interest of the king.
The coronation regalia and crown jewels are simply mind-boggling-crowns so big and bejeweled that it might take extra hands to steady the monarch under the weight.
Also of interest is the Royal Armory, a collection of armor dating to the 15th Century but enhanced greatly by Henry, who in 1509 completely restocked the armory with up-to-date armaments.
If you stay at a hotel near Buckingham Palace or St. James`s Palace, tea might be in order at the Palm Court at the Ritz Hotel. Afternoon tea, which begins at 3 p.m., is a little more substantial than tea later in the afternoon. The little finger sandwiches may seem inconsequential, but when dinner is a long way off, they can hit the spot.