Knowing that many food trends in France eventually find their way to the United States, Robert Noah of Paris en Cuisine shared what`s happening there. – Cuisine des champs (food of the fields): ”Chefs are trying to find wild and esoteric herbs or using techniques once used by their grandparents-for example, using the `skin` on the top of cream or milk to give richness to vegetables. By definition, this takes place outside of Paris because they`re evangelizing the use of herbs and ingredients that do not exist in Paris and never have. The attitude is `Be uninhibited, use what you want,`
which is brave for the French.”
– Middle-priced restaurants are losing ground: ”People will go out fewer times, but to the best places. Or they will go out often, but to inexpensive places. What`s losing out are those places where a meal may cost around 400 francs-about $80 a person.”
– Return to table service: ”Rather than arranging food on plates in the kitchen, some restaurants (Ledoyen, L`Arpege among them) are going back to dining-room service. It`s a mini-trend because it`s expensive, requires accoutrements and an experienced, large staff. It makes waiters really waiters, rather than delivery boys. They have to know how to carve, use their hands at the table, flame foods. Those who enjoy the theater of dining will love it.”
– Sandwiches: ”In Paris, mainly, during the last two years or so, sandwiches have begun to replace the big feast at lunch. This ties in with the increase of fast-food restaurants and the fact that there are more working women, who are not at home to prepare lunch, which has always been the main meal of the day.”
– More restaurant and food publicists, who have helped make food
”important” again: ”I can`t imagine some of the top chefs of the past hiring a PR (public relations) person; that would seem inconceivable. Today, you can`t imagine (Paul) Bocuse not having a publicist. Chefs have realized that they have a product to sell, like fashion or cars, and they have to go about it in the same way.”
– Hot restaurants:
L`Arpege, 84 rue de Varenne, 7th arrondisement: ”The big news now. It`s a 2-star that everyone expects will get three stars when the Michelin comes out in March. Chef Alain Passard is very creative, rooted in French regional cooking, in traditional cuisine. Everybody wants to go there.”
L`Oulette, 15 Place Lachambeaudie, 12th: ”Specializes in the food of central France, underlining the importance of regional cuisines and the bistro attitude, which is so fashionable now.”
La Timonerie, 35 quai de la Tournelle, 5th: ”Tiny, avant-garde, consciously trendy, a boutique restaurant. There is a mix of humble and fancy ingredients that goes beyond traditional.”
Trends relating to Americans in Paris:
– ”Previously, many of my clients were wealthy, middle-aged women. Now, there are more couples, people with a knowledge of food and wine who find learning more about food a great way to relax. Also, more professionals are traveling to France to explore.”
– ”They still want to go to a star place, but now most clients want a mix: a star restaurant, a new place and a less expensive place that`s more relaxed. They also want places that combine the magic words, price and quality.”
– ”Their favorite prestige restaurants are still Taillevent, Jamin and L`Ambroisie.”
– ”Americans are health-conscious, and that really takes the fun out of eating in France.”
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