It`s time that someone went to bat for buckwheat. The grainlike plant is rich in complex carbohydrates and other nutrients, such as protein, the B vitamins and iron.
Buckwheat long has been a filling staple in much of Central and Eastern Europe, where the citizenry considers it delicious as well, but most Americans have not eagerly embraced the nutty-tasting seed or any of its processed versions.
Buckwheat pancakes enjoy a loyal following, but aside from them the clientele for buckwheat products in this country consists mainly of people with strong ethnic roots.
These days more people are receptive to unfamiliar flavors; so the time may be ripe for a close look at buckwheat`s less apparent possibilities.
Buckwheat originated in Asia and was thought to have been introduced to Europe by Saracen invaders or possibly by returning Crusaders who acquired a taste for it in the course of their own invasions.
Botanically, buckwheat is a fruit related to the rhubarb plant. It fares well in comparatively poor, rocky soil and in cold, damp, windy climates.
In this country, kasha is widely available in four granulations, whole, coarse, medium and fine.
Buckwheat flour comes in light and dark versions. The dark, which contains particles of finely milled hulls, contributes more fiber to the diet and has a stronger flavor.
Flour and kasha in various forms are widely available as packaged grocery products. Unroasted buckwheat is sold mainly in natural food stores.
Virtually any buckwheat flour package will yield a pancake recipe and ones for several other specialties, including buckwheat dumplings, which some nonbelievers might view as a culinary equivalent of the lead balloon.
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Buckwheat converts are more likely to be won by one of these sophisticated formulas:
These blini appetizers are not unlike those served at New York`s famous Russian Tea Room. The recipe is from ”Sheryl & Mel London`s Creative Cooking with Grains & Pasta,” edited by Charles Gerras (Rodale Press, 1982, $8.95).
BLINI (RUSSIAN APPETIZER PANCAKES)
About 3 dozen
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Rising time: 2 hours
Cooking time: 20 minutes
1 package active dry yeast
4 tablespoons lukewarm water
1 1/2 teaspoon milk honey
1 1/2 cups milk
1/2 cup dark buckwheat flour
1/2 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
2 eggs, separated
4 tablespoons sour cream
Clarified butter for greasing crepe pan
Garnish:
Melted butter
2 tablespoons finely minced chives
Sour cream
1. In a medium bowl, sprinkle yeast over warm water. Add honey and stir to dissolve. Let stand 10 minutes until frothy.
2. Stir in milk, then sift both flours over the bowl and beat well with a wooden spoon. Cover with a tea towel; let stand 1 hour in a warm place until doubled in bulk.
3. Beat egg yolks briefly and add to the yeast mixture along with the 4 tablespoons melted butter and sour cream. Beat well; cover once more and let rise another hour.
4. Whip egg whites until soft peaks form. Beat down batter and fold in beaten egg whites. Heat a 6-inch crepe pan with a nonstick surface and brush lightly with clarified butter; plain melted butter may burn.
5. Pour about 3 tablespoons of batter at a time into pan. Remove pan from heat and rotate to cover bottom evenly with batter. Cook over medium heat until edges start to look dry.
6. Remove from heat and cool for a few seconds for easier lifting. Lift with a round spatula; turn blini and return to heat about 30 seconds. Turn out onto a tea towel and keep warm until all the batter is used up.
7. For garnish, mix melted butter with chives. Serve blinis with the butter and a bowl of sour cream to be passed at the table. Other traditional toppings might include minced onion, caviar or smoked salmon.
This grand, seafood-studded buckwheat pasta salad is the creation of Stephen Poses, a talented chef whose Frog-Commissary restaurant has cut a swath in Philadelphia. The recipe is from ”The Frog-Commissary Cookbook,” by Stephen Poses, Anne Clark and Becky Roller (Doubleday, 1985, $19.95 hardback, $12.95 softcover).
BUCKWHEAT PASTA SALAD
Six to eight servings
Preparation time: 1 hour
Marinating time: 45 minutes to 2 hours
Sesame-ginger vinaigrette:
1/2 cup plus 3 tablespoons soy sauce
3/4 cup rice vinegar
1/2 cup corn oil
1/4 cup sesame oil
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
2 tablespoons sugar
2 1/2 tablespoons pepper
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon minced garlic
1/2 teaspoon bottled hot pepper sauce
Pasta:
1 pound dried buckwheat noodles; see recipe, or buy Japanese soba noodles at an Oriental grocery
3 tablespoons sesame oil
Shellfish:
12 mussels
1 cup dry white wine
1 cup water
1 tablespoon minced shallots
1 bay leaf
1/2 pound shrimp, with shells
1/2 pound bay scallops
1/8 teaspoon salt
Vegetables:
8 asparagus spears
2/3 cup peeled carrots, julienned in 2- by 1/8-inch strips
4 cups red peppers (about 3 peppers), julienned
1/2 cup quartered canned baby corn ears
16 snow peas, stemmed and halved lengthwise
1/4 pound mushrooms, thinly sliced
Assembly:
Romaine leaves or other greens
Minced parsley or chopped green onions for garnish, optional
1. To make sesame-ginger dressing, whisk together all ingredients.
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2. Cook pasta in boiling salted water until al dente. Drain; rinse under cold water and drain again. Let rest 3 to 4 minutes, then toss with the sesame oil. Pasta can be covered and refrigerated for several hours at this point.
3. Scrub the mussels. In a 2-quart saucepan, bring to a boil the wine, water, shallots and bay leaf. Add mussels; cover and steam 2 minutes, or until mussels open. Remove with a slotted spoon to a plate to cool.
4. Poach shrimp in the same liquid 1 to 2 minutes until just done. Also remove to a plate to cool, then peel and devein.
5. Poach scallops in the same liquid 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer to a plate to cool. When shellfish have cooled, remove the mussels from the shells and remove the beard and foot from each mussel. Set aside 8 mussels and 8 shells for garnish.
6. Cut each shrimp into 4 pieces. Chop the remaining 4 mussels and combine with the shrimp and scallops. Add the salt and 1 cup of dressing. Refrigerate and let marinate 15 minutes to 2 hours.
7. Trim and peel the asparagus spears; immerse briefly in boiling water to blanch. Refresh under cold water; remove and set aside the tips for garnish. Cut the stems into 3/4-inch-long pieces. Have ready the other vegetables.
8. Dry and lightly oil the reserved mussel shells to make them look shiny. Fill each with a reserved mussel and an asparagus tip, both of which have been dipped in the dressing. Combine the other shellfish with the pasta, vegetables and remaining dressing.
9. Serve the salad on romaine and garnish with the filled mussel shells. Dust with minced parsley or chopped green onion, if desired.
This recipe for buckwheat noodles is from ”Sheryl & Mel London`s Creative Cooking with Grains & Pasta.”
BUCKWHEAT NOODLES
About 1 pound
Preparation time: 25 minutes
Resting time: 1 hour
1/2 cup light buckwheat flour
1 1/2 cups whole-wheat pastry flour
2 large eggs
1 tablespoon corn oil
3 to 6 tablespoons warm water
1. Mound flours in large mixing bowl or directly on work surface. Make a deep well in the center of the mound. Drop eggs into the well and whip them with a fork while slowly drawing flour into the mixture. Add oil and continue drawing the flour toward the center until the dough starts to form.
2. At this point, add water as necessary until dough becomes firm, shiny and elastic.
3. Knead about 10 minutes. Cut dough into 4 sections and let rest 1 hour. Roll dough out on a floured board until it is about 1/16-inch thick. Let it rest and dry slightly.
4. Starting on each end of the rolled-out pieces, roll toward the center until they meet, somewhat like a jellyroll. With a very sharp knife cut into 1/4-inch-thick strips. Unroll and cut into desired lengths.
This recipe for herbed kasha pilaf is from ”Better Homes and Gardens:
Cooking with Whole Grains” (Meredith, 1984, $5.95 paperback).
HERBED KASHA PILAF
Four servings
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 25 minutes
1/2 cup chopped onion
1 tablespoon butter or margarine
1 1/2 cups water
1 1/2 teaspoons instant chicken bouillon granules
1/2 teaspoon dried basil, crushed
1/3 cup long-grain rice
1 beaten egg
1/3 cup coarsely ground kasha (roasted buckwheat groats)
2 tablespoons snipped parsley
1. In a 2-quart saucepan, cook onion in butter or margarine until onion is tender but not brown.
2. Add water, bouillon granules and basil. Bring to boil; add rice. Reduce heat; simmer covered 10 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, in a bowl mix the egg and buckwheat groats. Stir into rice. Simmer covered 10 minutes longer, or until groats and rice are tender.
4. Before serving, stir in snipped parsley.
This recipe for whole kasha groats and pasta is from ”Sheryl & Mel London`s Creative Cooking with Grains & Pasta.
WHOLE KASHA GROATS AND PASTA
Six servings
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 40 minutes
2 tablespoons chicken fat
1 large onion, coarsely chopped
1 egg, lightly beaten
1 cup whole kasha groats
2 cups boiling water
1 tablespoon butter
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
1 1/2 cups cooked pasta, small shells or bows
1. Heat chicken fat in a heavy iron skillet. Saute onion until brown, stirring occasionally. Transfer to a nonstick pot and wipe out iron skillet.
2. In a bowl, combine beaten egg and kasha. Heat dry skillet again; when hot, add kasha-egg mixture, stirring constantly, until grains are sealed and separated.
3. Heat pot containing the cooked onion. Add kasha, stirring until blended, then add boiling water. Cover pot and cook 25 minutes over very low heat.
4. Add butter, pepper and pasta. Cook 5 minutes more and remove from heat. Let stand 5 minutes before turning out onto warm serving platter.
Note: This dish may be prepared ahead and rewarmed in oven for 15 minutes, covered.
SLAVIC STUFFED HAMBURGERS
Four servings
Preparation time: 25 minutes
Cooking time: 25 servings
1 pound finely ground round steak
2 tablespoons finely chopped onion
1/2 cup fresh white bread crumbs
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1/4 cup water
1/2 teaspoon salt
Dash pepper
1/2 cup sliced mushrooms
1 tablespoon butter
3/4 cup cooked kasha, cooked in chicken broth
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
1 tablespoon oil
Sauce:
1 cup sour cream
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1/2 teaspoon dijon mustard
1. Combine first six ingredients and form into 8 thin patties. Saute mushrooms in butter, then add kasha and parsley. Divide mixture into 4 portions and place in center of the patties.
2. Cover filling with remaining 4 patties, pinching sides together to seal in the filling. Press each into a round, flat shape.
3. Heat oil in large skillet and brown on both sides, then transfer to shallow casserole dish and bake 10 minutes in an oven preheated to 350 degrees. Combine sauce ingredients, topping each burger with a generous dollop of sauce. Bake 5 to 10 minutes more, until sauce bubbles.
Serve with additional hot cooked kasha, if desired.