Africa is so immense it dwarfs the imagination. But Togo, a tiny country in West Africa, renders it human. You walk through a chocolate forest en route to thundering falls, ride an upcountry train through an African terrain straight from National Geographic, listen to monkeys call in the warm humming air as the African moon slides low over the hills. And you`ll see wonderful dancing and voodoo rites that will make your hair stand on end.
Togo is largely unspoiled by tourism and all it connotes. The people are friendly and approachable, and travel is easy. The capital of Lome is safe even at night, and much cleaner than many comparable Third World cities. Despite late September`s coup attempt, the government remains firmly in control.
President Gnassingbe Eyadema has ruled one of Africa`s most stable governments for almost 20 years, but relations with neighboring Ghana historically have been strained, dating back to 1919 when the French and British partitioned the former German colony without regard for tribal boundaries and split several ethnic groups. Ghana`s harboring of Togolese dissidents has been a sore point.
The recent coup attempt was staged by Togolese dissidents from Ghana, and was crushed by government soldiers. There was fighting in the streets of Lome, but the situation has returned to normal. The markets are conducting business as usual and the airport is open. At press time, however, an 8 p.m. to 6 a.m. curfew was in effect, and the border with Ghana remains closed. Confirm flight times (and reservations) in and out of Lome because there may be delays.
There are 42 ethnic groups in this land where 85 percent of the people live an agrarian life. Tribal traditions are maintained in villages that haven`t changed in hundreds of years, and there is a notable lack of tribal rivalries. The music and dance, performed all over the country, are mesmerizing and exuberant. Women are prominent in government and business, which is especially noticeable in the Grand Marche, Lome`s central market, where the ”Nana Benzes” control the lucrative cloth trade noted for West Africa`s finest fabrics.
French is the official language, but much English is spoken or at least understood. Tours are readily available to the central coffee and cacao growing regions and to the game parks of the north inhabited by monkeys, buffalo, antelopes and elephants. The River Mono, which runs down the center of the country, offers refuge to crocodiles, exotic birds and hippopatami. Markets offer great buys in wood carvings, hand-carved chairs, masks, pottery, ivory, fabrics, malachite, batiks, hand-woven goods, animal skins and leather products. Expect aggressive salesmen in the main markets. Lome night life starts late and is very active, but drinks are as expensive as in Paris or New York.
Togo, along with neighboring Benin (formerly Dahomey), is the birthplace of voodoo, which then made its way to Haiti via the slave trade. The religion is still heavily practiced today, with less of the sinister overtone of its Haitian counterpart. A voodoo ceremony is one simply not to be missed.
The slave trade persisted in Togo until 1900, and the awareness of what actually happened here is poignant. Racial memories linger, and once in a while their subtle currents will engulf you. Expect changes in perspective no matter your skin color; if you are black, odds are good that the experience will stimulate intense feelings.
The best time to visit is in the long dry season from November through April. Air Afrique provides good direct service to Lome from New York with stops in Senegal and Cote d`Ivoire (Ivory Coast).
A yellow fever vaccination is required. Malaria precautions should be taken, but the chloroquine resistant strain which is a serious threat in East Africa is not a problem here, nor is AIDS. Recommended immunizations include typhoid, gamma globulin for hepatitis, polio and a tetanus booster.
Most travelers begin the African adventure with a trip to North Africa or Kenya, but Togo is a great alternative. It is quiet, gentle and accessible
–Africa untouched, unhurried, unadulterated.
WORLD UPDATES
Airline Security: The recent hijacking of a Pan-American World Airways aircraft at Pakistan`s Karachi airport underscores the urgent need for full cooperation between airlines and host governments. Pan-Am`s vaunted ”Alert” security system was only as impregnable as the airport`s security system which failed to seal the airport`s periphery, allowing hijackers to take the aircraft.
Albania: This long-isolated, staunchly Stalinist country may be coming out of its shell. It has opened a rail link to Yugoslavia and is courting economic ties with Yugoslavia and East Germany.
Cape Verde: A cholera immunization is no longer required.
More Top Picks Best Designer Sunglasses For Women
Chile: In the wake of the Sept. 7 assassination attempt on strongman ruler Augusto Pinochet, the government`s repressive grip on the country has tightened. A state of siege granting the government unlimited powers of arrest, internal and external exile and censorship without judicial review is in effect, renewable every 90 days.
China: Because of erosion caused by deforestation, the silt discharge of the Yangtze River now equals that of the Nile, Amazon and Mississippi Rivers combined, raising the threat of floods.
Common Market: The 12 Common Market countries have agreed on new measures to combat terrorism, including the development of quick and secure communications between European police forces.
East Germany: In a move designed to reduce the flow of Third World refugees seeking asylum in West Germany, East Germany now requires transit visas of travelers crossing into West Berlin, and only those travelers who have a visa for their country of destination will be issued a transit visa.
France: After a rash of Paris bombings, France is adopting a tough new policy against terrorism. Parisians are temporarily staying off the streets, and the flames of anti-Arab prejudice are being fanned. Searches of handbags in large stores and public buildings have become routine. In a related move, France now requires visas of all non-Common Market nationals. On a lighter note, the government recently announced new measures to cleanse the language of ”Americanisms.” Public radio must now play more than half its music in French, and foreign language rock videos must have subtitles.
Hong Kong: Hong Kong`s new subway, which was finished ahead of schedule and under budget, is now the preferred mode of transportation for the colony`s 5.5 million people. It runs 19 hours a day, seven days a week.
India: Annual outbreaks of meningococcal meningitis begin in November and last through April, principally in Old Delhi. An effective vaccine is available for people over the age of one year, and should be taken before leaving home. The disease usually occurs in children and young adults. The only official border crossing into Pakistan for foreigners is at Attair, Punjab/Wagha, Pakistan. People crossing by land travel by train or by road in convoy on the 3d, 13th and 23d of each month going west and on the 2d, 12th and 22d going east.
Italy: In a bid by Venice authorities to encourage tourists to practice decorum, people who stroll the lagoon city in swimwear, take a dip in a canal, or bed down in the piazza for the night will be fined on the spot.
For a summary of global travel conditions, contact World Status Map, P.O. Box 466, Merrifield, Va. 22116. Because conditions can change overnight, always make your own inquiries before you visit troubled areas. In the United States contact your local U.S. Passport Agency office or the Citizens Emergency Center at the State Department in Washington, D.C.; 202-647-5225. Abroad, check in with the nearest American embassy.