In the 20th century, Pilsen, on Chicago’s Lower West Side, became the center of Mexican immigration to the city. In the previous century, the neighborhood had welcomed waves of European immigrants, including German, Czech, and Irish people, but the neighborhood’s Mexican roots are everywhere.
These roots are found in the historical murals that adorn walls, doors and storefronts, the food festivals, parades and religious events, and the numerous community organizations striving to make life better for the next generation of Mexican Chicagoans. In Pilsen, you’ll find a mix of a strong Latinx cultural heritage with an artsy and youthful atmosphere.
For generations, 18th Street has been the conduit through which scores of first-time entrepreneurs achieved their own American Dreams, by selling the flavors and aromas of their home country to their fellow “paisanos.”
While Pilsen remains a working-class family neighborhood, its demographics are shifting once again. Although plenty of family-owned restaurants and businesses remain, you can now find a number of boutiques, trendy bars, cafes and vintage shops among the panaderias, tortillerias and street vendors offering tamales, elotes and paletas.
Despite concerns of gentrification, the depth of Mexican-American history in the neighborhood ensures Pilsen will retain its identity for decades to come. You may need to make a few stops around the “barrio” to truly savor all of its flavors and admire its art. Luckily, nearly everything is within walking distance of the 18th Street Pink Line stop.
EAT
Crepería Nuevo León
1636 W. 18th St. 312-929-4252
Nestled in the heart of Pilsen, the neighborhood’s only crepe restaurant might be the quirkiest in town. From sweet to sour to spicy crepes, the menu fuses global flavors without losing that Pilsen “mexicanidad.” Enjoy a savory La Gloria Crepe ($7), made with extra-silky Mexican caramel known as “cajeta,” and freshly squeezed grape juice ($3). The cozy, family-owned restaurant has Lotería-inspired decor, and its sister restaurant, the Nuevo León bakery next door, turns out rich pozole and menudo soups on weekends. There’s a petite patio on the side, and it’s BYOB.
5 Rabanitos
1758 W. 18th St. 312-285-2710
Run by a Mexican-native chef who cut his teeth working under Rick Bayless, the more upscale “5 Radishes” offers simple, artistic and technically excellent interpretations of traditional Mexican dishes. Their cucumber water is a refreshing start to any meal ($2.50).
Cantón Regio
1510 W. 18th St. 312-733-3045
Determined to bring the authentic flavors of northern Mexico to Chicago, Cantón Regio imports their cooking wood directly from the state of Nuevo Leon to perfectly flavor their arrachera, or skirt steak, served with grilled onions, roasted peppers and charro beans ($22.50 for half-kilo, serves two people). The live mariachi music on weekends pairs nicely with their BYOB policy and their authentic Mexican breakfast options ($6-$8) vary. Make sure to bring cash, as they don’t take plastic.
Honky Tonk BBQ
1800 S. Racine Ave. 312-907-7895
This funky saloon adds a touch of country flavor to the neighborhood and is known for its pork and brisket. Pair a pulled pork sandwich ($9) with a craft cocktail ($6-$10) or a local beer and a house dessert. There’s live music nearly every day, ranging from blues and jazz to traditional Mexican norteñas.
Sabas Vega
1808 S. Ashland Ave. 312-666-5180
Pork carnitas is a classic Mexican dish for weekends and special occasions. Starting at sunrise, this Pilsen kitchen takes its time to fry every part of the pig, including skin, feet and ears ($10 per pound). Choose your preferred cuts and get your hands dirty with a stack of corn tortillas and chiles jalapeños on the side.
Gino’s East Pizza
1659 W. 21st St. 312-226-8770
Mexican carnitas meets deep-dish pizza ($23). Taking a page from their Mexico City location, Chef Roberto Tostado designed a menu for Gino’s Pilsen storefront that implements Mexican staples like avocado, cactus, chorizo, pico de gallo, al pastor salsa and Oaxacan cheese.
Yvolina’s Tamales
814 W. 18th St. 312-731-3167
The owner went from pushing a street cart to running her own tamal storefront. Hers are not your typical corn husk tamales—they are wrapped in banana leaves ($6) and packed with healthy fare like squash, poblano pepper, kale and spinach, and drizzled with red or green mole, which you can also purchase to go.
DRINK
Del Toro
2133 S. Halsted St. 312-733-7144
This restaurant on the outskirts of Pilsen offers an exquisite selection of Mexican mixed drinks, like margaritas ($6) and palomas. With over 20 tequila varieties, mezcal and imported beer, you’ll catch a nice buzz to accompany your chicken and seafood tacos.
Caminos de Michoacan
1659 W. Cullerton St. 312-226-0687
A diamond in the rough, Caminos is one of the few neighborhood corner bars in Pilsen that truly resembles a Mexican cantina, and it has since it was opened. Caminos is full of longtime Pilseners and touts authentic Mexican live music and Micheladas, a unique Mexican beverage made with tomato juice, chile and other spices and your choice of beer ($6). The family-owned-and-operated joint is renowned for its Friday night karaoke (there is no cover but a very long line), which brings a diverse crowd, young and old.
Dusek’s Board and Beer
1227 W. 18th St. 312-526-3851
Harkening back to Pilsen’s days as a center of European immigration, Dusek’s Board and Beer is a restoration of John Dusek’s tavern, which opened in the neighborhood in 1892. The Michelin-starred kitchen turns out high-quality food and distinctive cocktails, like the Bonnie and Clyde, made with Libélula tequila and cachaca, a Brazillian spirit ($10). Stop in for a drink and some oysters ($3-$4 each), then catch a show at neighboring Thalia Hall.
Punch House
1227 W. 18th St. 312-526-3851
Dusek’s slightly more affordable basement lounge is a comfortable ’70s bar, complete with loungey couches, bookcases and a giant fish tank behind the bar. Every night, the venue has a variety of punches on draft, available in sizes ranging from glass or sno cone ($10) to carafe ($36) or bowl ($66). Bar snacks, sandwiches, and desserts are also available.
DO
National Museum of Mexican Art
1852 W. 19th St. 312-738-1503
The museum (free admission) showcases masterpieces from pioneering Chicago artists, as well as artists from the Southwestern U.S. and Mexico. A yearly Day of the Dead exhibition attracts hundreds of visitors in the fall.
El Grito
1824 S Wood St.
This annual celebration of Mexico’s Independence Day has moved from Millennium Park to the heart of Mexican Chicago in Harrison Park. The traditional Grito, a rallying cry that declared Mexico’s desire for freedom, is preceded and followed by international dance and music. The event draws Mexican and Mexican-Americans from around the region, and truly resembles the festivities in Mexico.
Murals
West 18th Street and West 16th between Wood and Halsted streets
Pilsen is the hub of muralism in the Midwest and the artwork speaks to the culture and socio-political struggles of local residents. A stroll down 18th and 16th streets will introduce you to some of the oldest murals in Chicago, dating back to the ’70s.
2nd Fridays Gallery Night
1711-2005 South Halsted Street
Pilsen is home to diverse and unique creative spaces. On the second Friday of each month, the Chicago Arts District opens up local galleries and artists’ studios to showcase art created in the neighborhood and around town (free). Pick up a map at the information center on Halsted (1945 S. Halsted St.), and walk around Pilsen to discover unique pieces and individuals.
RedEye tours Chicago neighborhoods in this series, which started with Bronzeville. Our friends at sister publication Hoy joined us to provide this look at Pilsen.