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To make the shaved noodles at Slurp Slurp, cooks fold a wheat-based dough multiple times before hacking at it with a special knife to slice off long ribbons. Order them stir-fried; the high heat of the wok prevents the noodles from clumping together or getting greasy. You can get the noodles with brisket ($9), beef stomach ($9), shrimp ($10) or, my favorite, a combination of pork belly, beef and shrimp ($10) that allows you to appreciate three remarkably different flavors and textures. The seasoning is surprisingly subtle, with just a hint of soy clinging to each noodle. But if you demand fireworks, Slurp Slurp will happily oblige. Condiments crowd each table, including a plastic container of pickled cabbage. As far as I’m concerned, it’s mandatory. The salty, crunchy slices taste sort of like kimchi without the heat, lending acidity to each bite. If you’re ready for it, a dark red chile oil brings the spice.

2247 S. Wentworth Ave., 312-982-2969, www.slurpslurpnoodles.com

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