Twisted Spoke has a lot in common with those biker bars you see in beer commercials: Sure, it’s dark inside and a little intimidating, but soon enough you realize that no beer company is going to do business in a place where yuppies get scared.
This self-described “family biker bar” is just as much diner as bar. It seats 50 inside, with tables set against booths and an open grill-think “Alice” meets “Easy Rider.” (Weather permitting, there’s ample outdoor seating too.) But a comic-demonic skeleton in a Rodman jersey sits atop a motorcycle over the outdoor sign, reminding visitors that where motorcycles rule, anything can happen-like being served really good food.
The chef knows how to cook. Think about it: People who drive Harleys order food here. He had better.
Everything is prepared from scratch; the meals can take some time to arrive but they’re well worth it. Service is attentive and friendly, and the servings are gargantuan.
Begin with the onion rings ($3.50), which are stupendous. Deep-fried to a golden, porcelain-like sheen, their light batter melts in your mouth as you bite into the tender slip of onion. The faintest hint of fat (mmm!) lingers behind. Not what your doctor ordered-but just what the doctor ordered.
Hummus ($5.50) at a biker bar? So much for stereotypical thinking. A huge dollop of creamy “womenpeas” (“the peas formerly known as chick,” according to the menu), are freshly ground and beautifully seasoned with tahini, olive oil, garlic, onion and parsley. The hummus is surrounded by warm, soft pita triangles.
The menu of sandwiches and fatboys (Spoke’s alias for hamburgers) embraces light, healthy vegetarian fare as well as down-to-earth diner food that will thrill your palate and choke your arteries. And, be it a hamburger bun or thick slice of Texas toast, the bread here is a player.
The fatboy ($6.95) is a sight to behold. The thick, juicy hamburger, seasoned with herbs and spices, is cooked exactly to order (medium-well in our case) and arrives between a fresh, plump garlic-toasted egg bun. All fatboys come equipped with raw onion, lettuce and tomatoes; diners can accessorize theirs with Cheddar cheese, Swiss cheese, grilled onions, bacon and/or barbecue sauce for no extra charge. A small mountain of hand-cut fries-crisp and ungreasy-is included.
Alberto’s Jumbo Burrito ($6.50) starts with a huge tortilla that bursts at the seams with loads of hearty, marinated chicken, Chihuahua cheese, black beans and cilantro. Sour cream and a smoky I(greater than)pico de gallo add more accompaniment if you want it. It’s served with a fresh side of rice mixed with tomato and avocado.
Just as hearty is the meat loaf sandwich ($6.50). Garlic buttered Texas toast can barely contain the larger-than-life slab of wonderfully flavored meat loaf. A tangy mustard sauce revs up the dish.
Sandwich Capri ($6.50) was a slight disappointment. This vegetarian offering starts right: Thick slices of mozzarella are sandwiched between fresh basil leaves, juicy red tomatoes and thin slices of onion. But the oil-and-vinegar dressing isn’t up to the task of melding the different flavors. The resulting sandwich is fresh but bland.
We didn’t have room for a hand-dipped ice cream bar ($2.50) but we did make room for beer. More than 50 varieties ($3 domestic; $3.75 imported) are sold.
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501 N. Ogden Ave.
312-666-1500
Hours: 11 a.m.-1 a.m. Sun.-Fri.; 11 a.m.-2:30 a.m. Sat.
Credit cards: A, M, V
Ratings: 4 forks: Top of the class
3 forks: Better than most
2 forks: Very good fare
1 fork: Middle of the road
Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.